/Vish is Vish’ Oxford ‘Best Chef’ is five-time James Beard Award semifinalist

Vish is Vish’ Oxford ‘Best Chef’ is five-time James Beard Award semifinalist

Snackbar is a chic French bistro/North Mississippi cafe-style restaurant that John Currence, of City Grocery Restaurant Group, founded in 2009. Vishwesh Bhatt (52), the restaurant’s chef, is always busy with his staff. He’s talking to them to ensure they have everything they need, planning the menu for the day, making sure the staff have the right ingredients, setting up the kitchen for the evening’s guests, and conducting taste-tests. Bhatt is the Mississippi’s only chef to be nominated this year for the prestigious culinary award that honors “chefs and other chefs making America’s cuisine more delicious, diverse, sustainable and affordable for all.” Vish is one the most wonderful human beings I have ever had the privilege to know and to be friends with. I am prouder than I can be and more excited about his win than I was for myself,” Currence, a former James Beard Award winner, said. “It’s exciting to be nominated, to be included in the list of semifinalists or finalists. But I believe that Vish is the epitome what young women and men in our field should strive to become.” The finalist will be announced May 7. Here is a list with the nominees. Rosie McDavid from Oxford, who is the program coordinator for Ole Miss First Scholarship at the University of Mississippi says that Snackbar is her favorite spot to catch up with friends and have a good time. There are daily specials, small plates and not-so-small dishes, as well as charcuterie, sandwiches and raw oyster bars. Desserts are also available. McDavid insists that “you go back and try the crispy Parmesan frites, with that truffle oil.” She also suggested a bourbon-old-fashioned. McDavid called it “Cheers” restaurant, in reference to the TV show. McDavid says that this is her favorite restaurant because of the friendly waiters, the hot and fresh food, and the quick service. She stressed that Snackbar would not be the same without Bhatt’s leadership. Bhatt is a South Indian chef, despite being a native. He has been living in Oxford for over 20 years. He said that his style of cooking reflects where he is at the moment, but also references his Indian roots. “My heritage and the place I grew up are very important to me. But this is my home and this is what it is that I do. I am a Southern chef. I am from here. He said that he has spent more time here than any other place. Bhatt moved to America in 1985 from Gujarat, India. He first visited Austin, Texas and then Oxford, Oxford, in 1992. He was surprised at the convenience of having a one-stop grocery store. In India, produce and spices were seasonal. Only certain stores sold specific items. Bhatt was taught how to cook by his grandmother and mother at a young age. His mother would cook a Sunday dinner for the extended family every Sunday, and Bhatt was always close to her apron strings. He learned from his mother that if he assisted her with chores, he could eat faster. He began cooking for himself after he was accepted at Ole Miss. He didn’t like the food in the cafeteria and wanted to save money. As a result, he started cooking for his roommate as well as friends. Bhatt was a frequent patron of City Grocery, an Oxford restaurant known for its fine Southern cuisine. He quickly saw the passion Chef Currence had for cooking and the ability to tell a story through his menu. He said that even in 1992 there was a seasonality to the menu. “I understood this concept because I grew up with it.” “And so I wanted to join that.” Bhatt was at the time looking for a job and City Grocery seemed like the right fit. He said, “I spent a lot time at the bar and I spent a lot at the bar so (Currence), knew who I was, as I knew him.” So, we already had a relationship and I asked him if he would have any space for me. He said, “Sure, come work for me tomorrow.” And of course, tomorrow was the day I showed up. I was like, “Oh, crap.” It’s real. According to Currence’s website, Currence has created a “dineasty” with his City Grocery Restaurant Group. This includes City Grocery and Boure, City Grocery Catering Company Big Bad Breakfast, The Main Event, and Snackbar. Bhatt, who had worked under Currence, realized he wanted a career in cooking. He attended Johnson & Wales University’s culinary school, and then spent time in Miami, Colorado, and returned to Oxford to work as a chef at Snackbar. Currence noticed that Snackbar had been opened years after Currence first saw it. From the food and the techniques to the dishes, Bhatt had incorporated his Indian influences into their menu. Currence was moved to tears when he saw Bhatt transform from an “amazing cook” into a professional chef. “And that’s the most important thing about our craft — how someone becomes a chef. Not when they can create something without a recipe. Currence said that it is when you cook from your heart, your inners, and tell the story of your life through food. This is the final step. It is when you can’t contain all of what you feel inside and express it through your food. Vish said that it was doing the insidious thing, which was what led him to becoming a chef. They understand that food is not just about eating. It’s all about the people who grow it, and where it comes from. Bhatt said that there are stories behind everything. There’s a reason certain things are done in a certain way. They are also great people and successful chefs who don’t have big egos and are willing to share their knowledge. It’s that which sets them apart in mine.” So what’s it like to work for Chef Vish? Andy McCown, Snackbar’s chef, said, “You have your slow evenings, and your busy night, but it’s crazy how we make it work.” McCown stated that they are able to serve customers in the dining area. This is where most reservations are. The booth area, oyster bar, and Snackbar are also areas McCown mentioned. We cater to everyone, trying to get large orders at the tables and small items people order at bar, but that’s our job. McCown said that it’s what we are supposed to do. McCown, who worked for City Grocery Group 10 years and Snackbar five years, said that he learned so much from Bhatt. McCown learned the most valuable advice from Bhatt, which is patience. Deandre Metcalf was reassured by his experience at Snackbar last summer that the Third Street Bistro in Clarksdale he plans to open this fall will be able to offer great food and excellent service. “Vish has an extremely small kitchen. Metcalf said that although there is a lot of prep space, the actual kitchen where all the food comes from is very small. “Seeing the sheer volume of ingredients and the difficulty of each plate in that tiny area just kinda reassured me that this little space doesn’t feel too big,” he added. Metcalf said that he was only a one-day employee of Bhatt and could see why he is the best chef in the group. “When I arrived in Chef Vish was julienning onions for a recipe. It was very simple. You could point it at someone else and make do. But Vish was there. He was meticulous, took his time, and it made all the difference. Metcalf said that Vish can still take that step and do it. Vish didn’t envision himself being a five time nominee for the James Beard Foundation Awards. He never considered himself to be making a difference. Bhatt believed someone was making fun of him when he heard about his first nomination. He still cannot believe it. It’s a huge honor to be included on the list. Bhatt said that some people believe you’re the best chef in the area. “I don’t doubt that I do great work. It’s simply that I know that there are many talented people out there who know so much. It’s amazing to get attention in Oxford.” He is simply doing what he loves while remaining true to himself. This is his advice to young chefs. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be able to learn and improve, but you must learn how to walk before you can run. Listen to the wisdom of those who have come before you. Don’t be concerned about what others do, worry about your job. Bhatt said that if you do what’s expected of you, everything will work out the way you want. Bhatt said that while it is important to have realistic goals and aspirations, it is equally important to be willing to work. “There is a lot talent in the state. Bhatt said, “I just happen to get some attention.” “I encourage people go out and support local small restaurants, farmers and farmers’ market,” said Bhatt. This is what keeps locals returning for more. McDavid said that when you think about celebrity chefs or celebrities, you tend to think of arrogance and attitude. But Vish is humble, approachable, and community-minded. He is quiet, but has a tangible presence. He is a tireless advocate for many causes and donates his time. He is an influence in Oxford, but not only in foodways.” Bhatt said that despite not winning the award, having a job, participating in the City Grocery Group and meeting new people, giving advice, or sharing recipes with those in need are enough to make him feel “very, very special”. Vish is one of those guys. Currence said that he doesn’t care much about winning but that winning is not something he thinks about when he cooks. He cooks because he enjoys cooking. Vish loves making people happy. Vish cooks because it’s his passion to share the love in his life through his food.” Metcalf can see why Vish is so special. Every item on Vish’s line is unique because it has a Vish flavor. His line is anything but ordinary, right down to the french fries. Each dish is unique. You don’t go to Oxford for dinner and then sit in a parking lot waiting to hear Vish’s name. Vish is Vish.”